May 14—Bantry, More Peninsulae, and Back to Bantry

Since Jess & Bobby were leaving Ireland for a tour of the European continent the very next day, we left them to make their final preparations, agreeing to meet late in the afternoon on Sunday to spend a final night together. So we decided to do another peninsula loop or two (they're just so extraordinarily scenic) and headed out. First, though, we packed our bags, since there was no way we were going to spend another night in that hotel overlooking the square...

(Click on the thumbnails for a larger view, and then on the enlarged image to return.)

On our way out of town, we spotted a sign for the Bantry Castle, so we went in. Turns out it was the delivery entrance for a beautiful, enormous estate and grounds that's now a museum and (very expensive) lodging. Our mistake in using the wrong driveway meant that we didn't have to pass the guardhouse and pay the entrance fee—heh-heh.

 
 
 
 
 
 

The gardens on the grounds were so gorgeous that we almost wish we'd paid to get in. Almost.

 
 

As we were touring the Bantry Castle museum inside, Mike (always the gregarious one) stopped to chat with one of the guides.

 
 

Mike's headrest kept disappearing and reappearing several times a day, based on the whim of the occupants of the back seat. Mike, who thought it was missing from the get-go, finally spotted it four days into the trip.

Bantry Bay, shrouded by some very low-hanging clouds.

 
 

This abandoned castle ruin, at Brow Head out near the tip of a peninsula, is typical of hundreds like it scattered throughout Ireland. It's be a tempting fixer-upper, if it weren't for the fact that real estate prices are in the stratosphere due to the booming Irish economy.

On a narrow road around the peninsula, we spotted an old Morgan headed our way and Joe pulled over to let him by. He was quickly followed by several more—apparently another motor club out on a tour, all with their tops down despite the drizzle. What spirit!

 
 
 
 

Another ruins. Mike the Gregarious, easily spotted even at long distance in his day-glow lime green slicker and special-order Tilley hat, chats with other tourists in the rain while the rest of us entertain ourselves in the car.

Makes you wonder how beautiful it would be if the sun came out...

 
 

It being a cold, damp late Sunday morning, we were all cheered to stumble upon this cozy pub in a tiny village—low ceilings, fire going, friendly barmaid and townspeople coming in after church for refreshment and camaraderie. One of the most pleasant stops of the trip.

Refreshed, we continued on, and a side road rewarded us with some splendid photo ops.

 
 

We stopped for lunch in Crookhaven, at the very tip of a little peninsula at the very tip of a big peninsula. Here, Doug tries his first Irish coffee, which turned out to be the first of many. Note that he already is holding his pinky finger properly extended.

Back in Bantry, we met up with Jess & Bobby, and found (guess what) a pub for some pre-dinner cocktails. Our table was right next to that of this gent, with whom Doug became bosom buddies. Tough to keep a conversation going with him, though, since 1) he'd lose his train of thought, and 2) he left every five minutes to go outside and smoke a fag. (A pleasant surprise for us was that Ireland has banned smoking from all pubs and restaurants. Wouldn't have thought...)

 
 

After dinner (pizza, since there weren't many choices in Bantry at 8:30 on Sunday night), we retired to Ma Murphy's for some final toasts before Jess & Bobby left. The barmaid took this family portrait for us from behind the bar.

We dithered as to whether we should include this one or not, but out of a sense of respect and fairness to Mary and the rest of the Counihan  family, we felt compelled to do so. Here's Mike, carousing unashamedly with Sheila (left) and Colleen at Ma Murphy's. There—we feel better now.